Right the technical part of Bung Fishing or the choices you choose will always be decided by the weather conditions and your pegs or peg on the day.
I fish a winter League and the bung can come into play on certain days and venues. The bung has
not really worked on the the previous 3 rounds or indeed last winter, but the bung came to the fore in the 4th round of the competition. I will go through that in a later blog- too little too late. Our competition allows 3 rods to be set up, I will always
have 2 floaters set up at any competition, one with the bung and other for fishing buzzers or drys. I never leave the bung set up at home, it can catch you fish on the hardest day.
My set up is really simple, but there are a few things that I always
do to ensure I get the most of my bung fishing.
1. I will use the lighest leader material I can get away with on the venue, as the water is so clear at this time of year on many fisheries. But there is no point hooking lots of fish and then loosing
all of them from breakages, balance your tackle to the fish swimming in the venue. What brands of leader do I use, well we all have our own favourites, look at the diameter and compare your brand to other brands and you might be suprised. Honestly check it
out, I was surprised.
2. In most competitions, rules state you cannot fish static flies, which means you cannot fish over depth. It is not safe for the fish as they will swallow the fly without any indication on your bung. I carry a really heavy bug
that I use to check the depth within three rod lenghts of the bank and try and find a deepest area in that peg. Just the same as a coarse angler that plumbs the depth. On really cold days I will fish the deepest area I find in my peg, with the flys 4
to 6 inches off the bottom of the lake.
3. Knowledge is the key. The depth i fish will be determined by the latest reports from the fishery, practice days, and the weather,i have caught brilliantly just 2ft under the bung in winter and other days at
10 to 15ft. Yes the 15ft is for really deep fisherys and it is a struggle to control the fish for netting but it can be done, i have gone to 17ft from boats, now thats a pain but sometimes its the only option. Preparation is key. I will have several leaders
made up on spools for the bung, I normall have a minimum of 2 for each depth ie 6ft, 10ft and 15ft all with flies on them. I can always cut them back if neccesary. Always retie your flies after every second fish as low breaking strain flurocarbon has
a tendency to break at the knots after a few fish.
4. The next question is how many flys to tie under the bung. There is no set format, I like two and I will change as I see fit. One weighted fly will work one day two weighted flies another day.
Other days the fish will flee from the noise, especially if the place is bunged a lot. On other venues they will come to the noise as they think they are being fed.
Folks catch in practice and will not change their method during thr match even if they
are not catching. There is always a way of winkling a few trout out. A spider or cormorant on the top dropper and a weighted or unweighted fly beneath has a more subtle approach. I also fish single flys and this is a great technique on well bunged waters.
Single Buzzers will get you that extra fish and sometimes all your fish on certain days.
5. Fish close in or far out. Unless I see fish in the distance up on top feeding
I will always concentrate on the edges. As you can read your indicator better close in and you have more control on the bung. Out in the lake the bung is bobbing all over the place and you cannot see the little nudges on the bung. Also trying to strike at
distance is hard and the conversion rate is 60 percent at best, that is 6 out of 10 takes. Whilst fishing tight as I call it, the conversion rate should be 80 to 90 percent